BIKEPACKING THE DEMPSTER HIGHWAY

A rugged and remote 925 km journey through two mountain ranges, foothills, and tundra in Canada’s far North to the Arctic Ocean

Route planning by Kendall Hammond and write-up and photos by Kelton Doraty. You can find Kelton on Instagram and Youtube, as well as leading bikepacking camp outs for the Vancouver Island Bikepack Collective.

We gratefully acknowledge that this route traverses the traditional, ancestral and unceded territory of the Tr’ondëk Hwëch’in, Vuntut Gwitchin, Teetl'it Gwich’in, Gwichya Gwich'in, Na-Cho Nyak Dun, and Inuvialuit Peoples whose deep historical relations with the land continues to this day.

This route follows 925 kilometers on the Dempster and Inuvik–Tuktoyaktuk Highways from Dawson City, Yukon to Tuktoyuktuk, Northwest Territories 95% of which is unpaved. The 736 km portion of the Dempster, which follows an old dog sled route, took 40 years to construct, opening in 1979. The remaining section connecting Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk (situated on the Arctic Ocean) opened in 2017. 

This route gains almost 14,500 meters (47,500 feet) of elevation while traversing through the ever changing landscape of the Yukon and Northwest Territories. In the peak of summer, you can expect endless sun as you approach the Arctic Circle. The weather can be tough with heavy rains and strong winds appearing at a moments notice. A lack of resupply options and inclement weather can make the route challenging and unpredictable. At times of heavy rain the road may become very muddy and impassable. 

The route starts in Dawson City, which was where the Klondike Gold Rush occurred. Food, camping supplies and other necessities can be purchased here and there are several restaurants and options for lodging. The first opportunity for resupplies, besides the restaurant at Eagle Plains, is 600 km into the route at Fort McPherson. You will need to load up on food at the start of your trip and it’s recommended that you send a food drop (free of charge) up to Eagle Plains via the Northwest Territories Tourist Centre in Dawson City. 

After starting on the Dempster, you will pass through Tombstone Territorial Park which boasts world class hiking through rugged peaks and permafrost landforms. Cyclists of the Dempster will be treated to beautiful views that are reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands.  After leaving Tombstone you will continue meandering your way through the Ogilvie Mountain Range, crossing the continental divide, and eventually passing through foothills en-route to Eagle Plains (to pick up your food drop and take a shower). Before crossing into the Richardson Mountain Range, you will cross the Arctic Circle which marks the point of latitude where on the summer solstice the sun will not set and on the winter solstice the sun will not rise. Before once again crossing the continental divide, and leaving the Yukon into the Northwest Territories, riders must pass through a 10km section known as “Hurricane Alley” that frequents gusting winds reaching speeds above 110 km per hour. 

You’ll notice as you head north into the foothills of the Richardson Mountains that lakes become larger and more abundant, trees become smaller and more sparse, and the road grades become flatter. This trend continues as you head towards Inuvik and cross the Peel and McKenzie rivers by ferry, the latter being the longest river in Canada. Twenty kilometers after leaving Inuvik, you will have entered the tundra and moved north of the tree line onto the permafrost. Everything is exposed; there is nothing to block the wind and all you can see is the endless system of lakes and the winding highway that was somehow built in between them. 

The smell and sight of the Arctic Ocean will draw you in as you reach your destination in Tuktoyaktuk. The Highway will pass along several pingo formations - large, ice core hills that form from recently drained lakes - that are geologically unique to the area. Treat yourself to a night of camping on the ocean while the sun fails to set in the north as you sleep.

WHEN TO GO

This route is best experienced during July through mid-August. The summer in the North are short, but the days are long. While the Dempster has been ridden in mid-June and into September you may run the risk of encountering freezing temperatures, as well as a greater likelihood of heavy rain which can make the dirt road turn muddy and unpassable.   

 

ROUTE OPTIONS

While this route can be done starting in Tuktoyaktuk, we think this route is best experienced South to North for several reasons:

  • Dawson City is logistically easier to fly to. Starting in the North would require flying into Inuvik and riding to the start or hitching up to begin your journey.

  • Dawson City offers a more affordable and wider range of foods and supplies, as well as the ability to arrange a food drop to Eagle Plains.

  • Bear spray cannot be purchased in Tuktoyaktuk, which is a necessity for this route.

  • Research and experience suggest that winds generally blow South to North.  

  • In terms of finishing the route, the Arctic Ocean feels more rewarding as a finish line.

ROUTE DIFFICULTY

Overall, this route should be considered moderate to challenging, mostly because of the remote nature of the trip, which traverses through grizzly bear country, as well as the lack of resupply options, changing terrain conditions and unpredictable and inclement weather.   

DETAILED ROUTE INFO

    • The route is frequented by motorized vehicles, however, in the summer most of those vehicles are tourists driving in camper vans and RVs. Drivers are generally friendly and provide lots of room when passing. At most one may experience 20 vehicles in one day and traffic slows down significantly once you pass the Arctic Circle.

    • Mosquitos are known to be bad, so it is recommended to bring a head net and bug spray.

    • Cell Phone service is sparse after leaving Dawson City and only available within towns once reaching Fort McPherson. Wifi can be purchased in Eagle Plains, however, the connection is slow and unreliable. Riders should carry an emergency beacon or satellite communicator in case of emergency.

    • After flying into Dawson City, you can pay to have your box shipped to Inuvik via Air North to re-use for your journey home. The airport will hold it for you, but the cost is a bit expensive. It’s possible that you can find boxes left by other cyclists at the airport, however, there is no guarantee. The bike shop in Inuvik, which is the only bicycle store on the route, does not often have boxes for sale and we have been told is hard to get ahold of.

    • The many lakes and rivers that you will pass provide ample opportunity for fishing (i.e. bikefishing). Fishing licenses can be purchased in Dawson City or online. Please be aware of fishing restrictions between Inuvik and Tuktoyaktuk.

    • Minimum recommended tire width is 45mm and best experience on at least 2 inch mountain bike tires due to the deep gravel in some spots of the highway.

    • You may want to consider bringing an extra tire as there is only one bicycle repair shop in Inuvik with limited supplies and as metnioend above, hard to contact.

    • It’s highly recommended to stop for a few days of hiking in Tombstone Territorial park!

    • Wildlife, including grizzly bears, can be everywhere and it’s important to practice smart camping practices. Most territorial campgrounds have garbage containers, the back of which can be opened and used as a makeshift bear cache.

    • After reaching Tuktoyuktuk, it is relatively easy to hitchhike back to Inuvik in order to fly home.

HIGHLIGHTS, RESUPPLY, REFUEL & REST SPOTS

Adventure cyclists should prepare for very long stretches with no opportunities for resupply after leaving the tourist city of Dawson. Water is plentiful on this route as you pass over many streams and rivers, except for a 120 km stretch after leaving the Ogilvie River before reaching Eagle Plains. Most territorial campsites do not have running water, however, most are situated near a river.  A water filter or tabs are necessary.

DAWSON CITY

INUVIK

  • Dawson City features several restaurants and taverns, favorites include:

    • Back Alley Pizzaria & Greek (great pizza, open late)

    • Tacos (authentic tacos)

    • Red Mammoth Bistro (higher end dinning)

    • Dawson City General Store (grocery store)

    • Bonanza Market (grocery store)

  • A food drop to Eagle Plains can be arranged at the NWT Dempster Highway Visitor Centre (not the Yukon Tourism centre)

    • Yukon River Campground (beautiful Territorial campsite on the river)

    • Gold Rush Campground (crowded RV campsite)

    • Miners Rest RV (private campground with showers)

    • Dawson City River Hostel

    There are also several hotels and B&Bs in Dawson City

  • Dawson Trading Post (camping and outdoor supplies, such as fuel/bear spray)

    • NorthMart (grocery store, general store, fast food)

    • Alestine's (cozy and delicious food)

    • The Roost (burgers etc.)

    • The Trapper Pub (bar and night club)

    • Happy Valley Territorial Park (campground that has seen better days)

    • Mckenzie Hotel

    • Inuvik Capital Suites

    • Nova Inn

    • Paddy Cycles (available by appointment only, hours of operation vary)

    • Midnight Sun Recreation Complex (hot tub and showers)

EAGLE PLAINS

Eagle Plains has limited hotel rooms, a campground, shower facilities, a restaurant and a bar. Hotel rooms book up fast, so you will need a reservation in advance.

Only limited supplies are sold here, such as chocolate bars and potato chips.

 

TSIIGEHTCHIC

    • Northern Store (grocery store)

    • Tsiigehtchic Tourist Centre (tent pads, shower facilities, and kitchen access)

FORT MACPHERSON

    • Northern Store (grocery store)

    • Tetlit Service Co-operative Limited (grocery store)

    • Big Momma's (burgers and fries!)

    • Peel River Inn (hotel)

    • Shaanutee's Bed & Breakfast (B&B)

TUKTOYAKTUK

    • Northern Store (grocery store)

    • Stanton Tuk (grocery store)

    • Grandma's Kitchen (burger/fish shack on the ocean, try the muktuk)

    • End of the Road Ltd (restaurant with limited hours)

    • “End of the Road Campground” (new campsite near the Arctic Ocean Sign with potable water and electrical outlets).

    • There are several B&Bs in Tuktoyukuk

    • Arctic Ocean Canoe & Qayak (rental kayaks or canoes and explore the pingos)

OTHER

There are several government and Indigenous run campgrounds along the highway except for:

  • 170 km stretch from Engineer Creek Campground to Eagle Plains - However there is pull out station about 40 km south of Eagle Plains with tree coverage, bathrooms and garbage disposal that is suitable for wild camping 

  • 130km between Inuvik and Tuktoyaktuk - This section is exposed and windy, treat yourself by camping in the never ending daylight on the soft tundra.